Nike’s iconic Air Max Plus TN has been banned from several pubs and restaurants around Australia after it became a symbol for eshay and criminal culture – but the shoe is slowly seeing a shift away from its controversial past.
The signature design of the Nike TN, which debuted in 1998, was created by Sean McDowell, takes inspiration from Florida’s palm trees and wanting to emulate the coastline in a shoe.
However, the TN became weaponised in Australia as it became the footwear of choice for petty vandals and violent criminals.
Shoes were shoplifted, brawls started on public transport over pairs, and one child was even bitten in a popular Sydney shopping centre after refusing to hand over his shoes.
Pubs around the country went as far as banning TNs and Air Maxs, with patrons turned away and told the shoes were only worn by ‘drug dealers, gang members and undesirables’.
The Nike Air Max Plus TN became Australia’s most infamous shoe after being weaponised by the country’s criminal underworld
TNs became the footwear of choice for petty vandals ranging all the way to violent criminals – with the shoe even used as currency in prison
It’s rise into pop culture was largely driven by the underworld feeding it, with rappers and criminals using the shoe as a calling card.
Images from the 2000s show graffiti artists desecrating trains in their TNs, while videos show eshays gabbering at festivals and engaging in fights brandishing the shoes
TNs were even used as currency in prison, with inmates trading the shoe for favours and even drugs.
A prisoner named Dave told Vice he saw a newly incarcerated man threatened to be cut open if he didn’t give up his TNs.
‘This young bloke from Sunshine had been lobbed into our unit, and the only way you could get them in prison was if you wore them when you got arrested,’ he said.
‘He would’ve lasted all of half-an-hour before one of the Albanians told him to take them off or else he would get his stomach cut open with a hedge trimmer.’
Images from the 2000s show graffiti artists desecrating trains in their TNs, while videos show eshays at festivals engaging in fights while brandishing the shoes.
The Marsden Brewhouse in Sydney’s north-west faced massive public backlash after a sign at the hotel entrance stated patrons wearing trendy and expensive Nike TN’s and Air Maxes would be refused entry, on top of facial tattoos, gang related tattoos, offensive clothing and ‘satchels/manbags and bumbag for males’.
The $45 million hotel is owned by the Laundy family, whose pub empire is valued at $500 million.
Family patriarch Arthur Laundy abolished the pub’s dress code as soon it was brought to his attention, saying it was a mistake.
‘When I found out about it this morning, it was pulled down immediately,’ Mr Laundy told radio station 2GB in 2019.
‘I have no idea who put it up there, evidently I’ve since found out. There are some of the guys, the guys who wear their caps back to front, ‘eshays’ have been around the front of the hotel, just being intimidating.”
Mr Laundy stressed his pub was a ‘family hotel’ where everyone is welcome.
‘As far as dress codes go, as long as they’re reasonably dressed, I have no problems with dress codes. I own a lot of hotels, I don’t have dress codes in any of those. As long as you’ve got your daks’on, you can come in.’
The Bank, a popular bar in Sydney’s Newtown, denied entry to a man called Seb because he was wearing TNs in 2015, responding with a message saying drug dealers wear the shoe and they were trying to ensure patrons’ safety.
‘They sent me a response back saying: ‘I know it can be difficult to understand as we all want to wear our runners out sometimes as its comfortable’,’ he told the Telegraph.
‘However, these types of footwear are more often than not worn by less than desirable patrons. By that I mean they are gang members at worst case scenario, or just young men you think are gang members.
‘I can honestly guarantee you that almost every single person I’ve caught selling drugs on the premises or has picked a fight has been wearing those shoes.
‘Seb, you are always welcome in our hotel. We simply ask that you assist us in keeping out the wrong sorts of people by not wearing your TNs or Airmaxs.
‘I know it sounds silly but it really does work.’
The Bank said they have a dress code but wouldn’t comment directly on TNs.
FootLocker, who own exclusive rights to the shoe in Australia, found it difficult to sell it during the 2000s due to its reputation.
The price fell to as low as $120, with shelves stacked with stock of the now infamous TN.
The hotel dress code has since been abolished after the sign sparked public backlash
A ban on Nike Air Max 2 sneakers (pictured) had the hotel on the wrong foot with patrons
However in recent years it has seen a shift, with the shoe becoming popular with Aussies from all walks of life.
Tim Ingram, who runs TN Talk Australia, said the stigma around the shoe from being the ‘eshay’ uniform is fading.
‘You’d wear a pair of shoes and go to a party or go to school, people would say oh there’s an eshay, he’s going to steal your stuff,’ he told Grounded.
‘I’ve never stolen anything in my life. We’re getting recognition now. We don’t have such a bad rep.’
The Nike TN range now has hundreds of different designs and colours and remains one of the best selling shoes in Australia.
Rappers including hip hop star Kerser still wear the shoe as it became a huge part of Australia’s underground scene , particularly in western Sydney.
Creator McDowell said he came to Sydney for the first time in 2000 for the Olympics, admitting how shocked he was how popular the shoe was.
‘I went into a store and people found out I’d designed it. I spent 15 or 20 minutes signing autographs and taking photos,’ he told Grounded.
‘I thought wow, this pretty amazing, this is rockstar status. All because I was a little designer who worked on this thing.’
Is your child an eshay? They wear bumbags, speak in ‘pig Latin’ and get into strife at the train station – here’s what you need to know about the Aussie subculture More Australian youths are embracing life as an ‘eshay’, causing havoc at train stations and shopping centres, while proudly donning bumbags and mullets.
The eshay movement has gained traction across the country with its teenage members identified by their matching designer sportswear, Nike TN sneakers and generally menacing attitude.
While the more hard-core eshays engage in assaults, robberies and threaten other youths, most seem to wander the streets aimlessly.
More Australian youths are embracing life as an ‘eshay’, causing havoc at train stations and shopping centres, while proudly donning bumbags and mullets
The eshay culture has gained traction around Australia with gangs in nearly every state
Many eshays use social media to show off their chaotic antics
While they’ve managed to create their own questionable uniform in the form of baggy track pants, shorts and polo shirts, eshays have also developed their own language.
Some scramble words and put ‘ay’ on the end in a form of pig Latin. ‘Eetswa’ means ‘sweet’ and ‘chill’ becomes ‘illchay’.
The term eshay is similar to the UK phrase ‘chav’ and can be interchangeable with ‘lad’, which in turn sometimes becomes ‘adlay’.
‘Eshay’ may have started as ‘eshay adlay’ – pig Latin for ‘he’s lad’ or be related to ‘sesh’, for a prolonged period of drug consumption.
Eshays are said to have spread from Sydney’s inner-city graffiti scene in the 1980s through Housing Commission estates and out into the suburbs.
Teens embracing eshay culture had predominantly come from low socioeconomic backgrounds but the movement has also been picked up by private school boys.
Favoured labels for the fashionable eshay include Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, and Lacoste, paired with Nautica, Adidas, Under Armour and Ellesse.
Eshays are said to have spread from Sydney’s inner-city graffiti scene in the 1980s through Housing Commission estates and out into the suburbs
Eshays are known to hang around at train stations
In south-east Queensland it is the Northside Gang which have been causing chaos for many residents.
The group of eshays are known to showcase their rebellion on social media, posting videos of wads of cash and drugs.
Their rivals are those of the Southside Gang, also known to broadcast their behaviour, posting footage of them attempting to steal cars.
In Sydney the movement has been further exacerbated by drill rap group OneFour, hailing from Mount Druitt and famous for their song ‘Shanks and Shivs’.
Three members of the group were jailed including two over a violent assault in a hotel pokies room nearby Rooty Hill in 2018 which left two men unconscious.
Whatever the motive for urban teenagers with bad haircuts donning Nike TNs and slinging bumbags over their shoulders, they are apparently overtaking the suburbs
In January a young ‘eshay’ with a mullet threatened to bash an adult on a Melbourne train, before declaring that he ‘owns Frankston’. A bystander filmed the boy, who appeared to be about 13 years old, attempting to intimidate – or ‘staunch’ the man (pictured)
Fellow Sydney rapper Spanian has also done wonders for the eshay subculture and is seen as the poster boy for the worrying trend in teens.
The controversial artist is known for speaking candidly about his life of crime, imprisonment, drug addiction and growing up in inner city Woolloomooloo.
Many see Spanian as one of the ‘original’ Sydney eshays.
Notorious Sydney rapper and convicted felon Spanian has made a name for himself in the world of eshays
FootLocker, who own exclusive rights to the shoe in Australia, found it difficult to sell the shoe during the 2000s due to its reputation
How to spot an eshay Eshays wear Nike TN trainers with polo shirts, puffer jackets, tracksuit pants or baggy shorts and baseball caps.
Favoured labels include Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, and Lacoste, paired with Nautica, Adidas, Under Armour and Ellesse.
Some eshays scramble words and put ‘ay’ on the end in a form of pig Latin. ‘Eetswa’ means ‘sweet’ and ‘chill’ becomes ‘illchay’.
Hard-core eshays engage in assaults, robberies and threatening behaviour against other youths but many seem to wander the streets aimlessly.