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‘Refuge of the last dreamers’: Luang Prabang, a city suspended in time

ByRomeo Minalane

May 19, 2024
‘Refuge of the last dreamers’: Luang Prabang, a city suspended in time

When a royal city in ancient Laos, Luang Prabang is home to Buddhist temples nestled in a valley on the Mekong River.

Luang Prabang in Laos [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

Luang Prabang in Laos [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

A brand-new day breaks to the balanced shuffling of bare feet upon the ground.

Like a phantom from centuries past, a procession of a number of hundred shaven-headed monks emerges through the dawn mist, snaking its method through the drowsy narrow streets. Buddhist residents line the path to make their day-to-day offerings of rice and fruit as the monks file by with their alms bowls. As calmly as they appeared, the monks vanish back inside their temple walls, their saffron bathrobes rippling gently behind them.

A monk hurries to dawn prayers and meditation at one of the numerous Buddhist temples in Luang Prabang, Laos [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

This dawn routine in Luang Prabang is simply one element of life that provides the little city its ethereal, forgotten air. Found in the nation of Laos, 370km (229 miles) northwest of the capital, Vientiane, Luang Prabang depends on a lovely valley at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers.

That, throughout parts of the 20th century, the borders of Laos were sealed to immigrants, integrated with its glittering temples and ancient spiritual aura, has actually guaranteed the town has actually stayed among the most cloistered, pristine put on the world.

Monks collect for a meal at a Buddhist temple retreat in Luang Prabang [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

Monks collect for a meal at a Buddhist temple retreat in Luang Prabang [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

As the early morning starts, the occupants of Luang Prabang tackle their service in the middle of the city’s captivating mix of elaborate Buddhist temples and falling apart French colonial architecture.

A monk leaves his lodging on temple premises [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

The tranquility of this sanctuary leaks easily into the rhythms of life. The little alleys off the primary street are filled with young kids making kites, old guys playing boules, schoolgirls loaded with books riding along on bikes, females cooking and filling the air with the envigorating tang of oil, chilli and garlic.

Sunday is pet cleaning day in Luang Prabang [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

Sunday is pet dog cleaning day in Luang Prabang [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

Other residents kill time by resting on their front decks making paper dragons, connecting them to pieces of string and enjoying them drift up in the breeze.

A barber at work [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

Misconception and truth appear to dovetail nicely in the story of Luang Prabang’s origins.

Legend states that centuries back, 2 sorcerers were taking a trip down the Mekong when they came to a point where 2 rivers satisfied. The entire location radiated an amazing appeal; flowers grew in a riot of colour, and stunning trees towered on the river banks.

Awaiting the wind. A kid with his kite on the banks of the Mekong River [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

Waiting on the wind. A kid with his kite on the banks of the Mekong River [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

The sorcerers were so mesmerized by what they saw, they summoned 15 regional water spirits to develop a brand-new royal city on the area. The sorcerers utilized their magical powers to choose the finest websites for the royal palace and the numerous temples. When the city’s limits were developed, they called their development Xieng Thong, or “The Golden City”.

A Monk prunes the bougainvillea hedge on temple premises [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

Luang Prabang was established in the 14th century when it ended up being the seat of power of the Lan Xang dynasty that ruled land-locked Laos for 3 centuries.

Buddhism was stated the main religious beliefs around the exact same time, and a succession of Lan Xang kings promoted the faith by setting up spectacular temples in the Lord Buddha’s honour. Thirty-two of these historical Buddhist temples still stand in Luang Prabang today. The most popular is the spectacular Wat Xieng Thong, or the Golden City Temple, integrated in 1560.

A newbie Monk oversleeps his space after participating in the alms event [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

An amateur Monk oversleeps his space after participating in the alms event [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

Embed in green, shaded premises, it has timeless Luang Prabang temple architecture with roofing systems that sweep to the ground in elegant arcs, a spectacular gold-leaf outside and an elaborate “tree of life” mosaic on its rear wall.

A monk goes into the mouth of an animist setup on the roadway outside Luang Prabang originating from Vientiane. There are numerous comparable structures, commemorating the ‘Phii’ – or animist spirits – made from concrete or fibreglass, peppered around different parts of Laos [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

When the Lan Xang kingdom fell in the 17th century, and the capital of Laos was relocated to Vientiane, Luang Prabang adjusted to the decrease of its royal status by maintaining its spiritual function as a centre of Buddhist praise. It likewise endured by making use of its ancient beliefs in “Phii”, or animist spirits.

A young kid in his hammock [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

A young kid in his hammock [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

Phii are the spirits of wind, water, trees and the dead who are believed to affect human fortunes and the natural surroundings. Lots of residents of Luang Prabang, in addition to the ethnic groups such as the Hmong and Mien discovered in the blue-tinged mountains above the city, pray to these spirits to assist them browse hard times.

A store window shows old pictures in the centre of the old town of Luang Prabang [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

Little shrines including brilliantly coloured offerings of food and presents can be seen on roadsides and in stores and homes all over the area.

The co-existence of Buddhism with such natural faith in the powers of nature certainly assisted Luang Prabang keep its serenity throughout other durations of turbulence, too, consisting of the creation of French colonial guideline in the late 19th century, and the civil war in Laos in the 1970s and 1980s.

Majestic trees line the banks of The Mekong, Luang Prabang, Laos [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

Majestic trees line the banks of The Mekong, Luang Prabang, Laos [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

Regardless of the reality that Luang Prabang is now more available to immigrants due to air travel and a tourist-friendly Laos federal government, little bit here has actually altered. The city appears to cast a spell over all its visitors, drawing them into its meditative slipstream and carefully deflecting any invasions into its old way of living.

Riverside commerce on the banks of the Mekong River [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

In 1995, UNESCO positioned Luang Prabang on the World Heritage list, making it qualified for conservation funds from the UN and hence additional adding to a more steady future.

Emerging from the backstreets onto the primary road of Thanon Khaem Khong, the effective yet relaxing Mekong dreamily goes by.

Discharging structure products from among the lots of boats that dock on the Nam Khan River [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

Dumping structure products from among the numerous boats that dock on the Nam Khan River [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

On its banks listed below, old wood boats discharge their heavy freight, individuals cross to the opposite bank in shuttle bus boats, barefoot boys play football and travelers work out fares for the two-hour journey to the well-known Pak Ou caves that are stuffed complete of Buddha statues.

A commuter boat speeds its method up the Nam Khan River [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

Later on, the sun embeds in a huge ball of intense orange and red, its rays starting the Mekong and painting its banks a warm golden shade. Day fades into the coolness of night as the very first stars appear. The vibrant sounds of kids playing vaporize into the range as they make their method home.

In the temples dotted around the city, monks start their night chant. The mesmeric noise resounds throughout the valley and after that passes away, as the dark overview of the mountains bleeds into the darkness.

Bank-to-bank crossings on the Nam Khan River [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

Bank-to-bank crossings on the Nam Khan River [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

Close by, sitting under a fringe of pastel-coloured paper lanterns at a riverside dining establishment, a group of French travelers consume beer and reverse in sluggish whisperings. Their state of mind appears to echo that of among their compatriots nearly a century previously.

A chess table amongst the trees on the banks of the Nam Khan River [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

In 1909, Marthe Bassene, the spouse of a French colonial physician, explained Luang Prabang as a “wonderful paradise” lacking the modern-day pressures of development and aspiration. Could this location, she asked in her journal, be the “sanctuary of the last dreamers, the last fans, the last troubadours”?

Tonight, like every night here, Luang Prabang addresses the concern with mild stillness and silence.

A dawn yoga session in Luang Prabang, Laos [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

A dawn yoga session in Luang Prabang, Laos [Jack Picone/Al Jazeera]

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