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Sake, baijiu, shochu, makgeolli: The Asian alcohols with … – The Australian Financial Review

ByRomeo Minalane

Jan 23, 2023
Sake, baijiu, shochu, makgeolli: The Asian alcohols with … – The Australian Financial Review
AFR Magazine

  • Life & & Luxury
  • Food & & Wine

Dining establishments and alcohol merchants have actually broadened their offerings of Asian spirits, and Australian distillers are developing their own.

Sake. Baijiu. Shochu. Makgeolli. All these Asian alcohols have something in typical: they’re used a “starter culture” that transforms starch in grains– rice, sorghum, barley– into fermentable sugars that can be brewed or distilled.

In Japan, this starter culture is called koji, a type of aspergillus mould that is likewise utilized to make soy sauce and miso. In China, it’s called qū (noticable “choo”), and is more of a mixed-culture starter, including both saccharifying moulds and fermentation yeasts. Not just are koji and qū important in the production procedure, they likewise contribute umami-rich flavours rather unlike those discovered in Western malt-based beer or whisky.

Koji spirits by Reed and Co.

The other thing that connects these beverages is their increasing appeal in Australia; not simply in dining establishments, however likewise in retail. In 2022, alcohol chain Dan Murphy’s doubled its offering of Asian drinks, noting a lots brand-new sakes, in addition to the Japanese white spirit, shochu, and Korean makgeolli (rice white wine), soju (grain spirit) and flavoured soju.

A little however growing band of Australian makers and distillers is likewise checking out koji and qū-based beverages. Sanyou Tasmanian Baijiu, introduced in 2015, is the current in your area produced strong Chinese white spirit. The Tasmanian good friends who established Sanyou– civil engineer Ian Sypkes, Chinese culture specialist Tim Ye and fermentation professional Chris De Bono– think it’s the very first baijiu made here that follows all-traditional Chinese approaches, from using specifically cultured qū to ageing the spirit in clay pots.

“There’s a stating in China,” states Sypkes. “Water is the blood of baijiu, qū is the bones and sorghum is the flesh. All over you enter China, individuals are utilizing basically the exact same water and the exact same sorghum– however each distillery’s unique sauce, their finest concealed, is their qū. We chose that for our baijiu, we would produce our own. It took us 2 years to best.”

Hamish Nugent and Rachel Reed, of Reed & & Co distillery.

The inaugural commercial releases from Melbourne Sake, Australia’s very first craft manufacturer of the brewed rice drink, likewise struck the marketplace in 2015. Hospitality experts and mates Matt Kingsley-Shaw and Quentin Hanley went to sake breweries in New Zealand, the United States and Japan prior to opening their own.

They import the koji and yeast from Japan however utilize a single range of rice for each of the 2 sakes they produce. One is a lighter, brighter-tasting expression made from Australian-grown koshihikari (much better called sushi rice); the other is a more mouth-watering, complicated sake made from tachiminori rice, dry-farmed in Nimbin NSW.

To make more unique, genuinely regional sakes, Kingsley-Shaw and Hanley are exploring with spontaneous yeast fermentations (my taste of the trial brew was encouragingly intricate and delightfully cool), and are looking to work together with Hamish Nugent, of Reed & & Co distillery in Bright, who is utilizing his own koji to make pleasantly interesting spirits.

“We began dealing with koji 4 years back,” states Nugent, who, like partner and co-founder Rachel Reed, is a previous chef, and was currently knowledgeable about its usage in food.

“Unlike Western beer or whisky making, where malting the barley and after that boiling the mash launches a great deal of sugars simultaneously and leads to a quick ferment, the koji gradually launches the sugars to the yeast and produces citric acid which drops the pH of the liquid, indicating we can keep the ferment opting for 30 days. This indicates we have great deals of intricate flavours that we can then record in the distillation.”

Sanyou’s qū is the distiller’s unique sauce.

Nugent has actually just recently set up a vacuum still at Reed & & Co that will permit him to distil at lower temperature levels than utilizing traditional copper pot-stills and record a lot more of the subtle scents. He’s likewise eager to make koji on an industrial scale for usage by other makers and distillers, such as Melbourne Sake.

“I like the flavours you discover in these beverages,” he states. “And I truly desire this sector to grow in Australia. We can’t do it on our own.”

Umami-rich flavours: Melbourne Sake Tachiminori Brunswick; Spirit Lab by Reed & & Co Chilli Koji; Sanyou Baijiu.

Max Allen evaluates …

  • Melbourne Sake Tachiminori| Brunswick $55 |The richer and funkier of 2 single-variety rice sakes: great appetizing fruit overtones, underpinned by mouth-watering flavours of button mushroom and tips of soy umami. Delicious.
  • Spirit Lab by Reed & & Co Chilli Koji| Brilliant $60 |Actually remarkable chilli-infused liqueur, super-complex and multi-layered, perfectly stabilizing mild sweet taste and savoury richness; likewise wonderful combined with ginger beer.
  • Sanyou Baijiu|Launceston $188 |A cavalcade of unanticipated flavours– toasted grain and heady incense, creamed cashew and sweet shiitake– brought by an effective, remaining hit of strong, mouth-filling spirit.

Find out more

Max AllenBeverages writerMax Allen is The Australian Financial Review’s beverages writer. He is an acclaimed reporter and author who has actually blogged about white wine and beverages for near 25 years. Get in touch with Max on Twitter. Email Max at max@maxallen.com.au

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